(Beth) Hour 5 in Buenos Aires, and we already have happy bellies full of grilled steak and french fries.  Can someone please remind me why all the tofu and chard at home? We are staying with a couple who rent out a couple of rooms in their home in the old part of the city, San Telmo.  They have been very kind to us.  He is Canadian and she is Mexican.  They recently rescued Marco, a stray dog who is sleeping on the floor right now, with frequent spasms like he's chasing a rabbit in a dream.  He has an ear infection, but he still seems very satisfied with his boring new life.  They offered us coins for the bus, heated up the hot tub on the roof, and invited us to a Brazilian drumming performance tonight.  We took them up on the hot tub, but not the drums.  I am happy to have someone with local knowledge to help us out.
      We don't stick out here.  I even saw a guy taller than Nate.  Though one street merchant did yell out as we passed, "Hola!  Amigos!  ...  (H)ar--ry--Po--tter!"  At us?  Not sure.  Nate does have a boyish charm.

The "before" picture. In the taxi after 24 hours of travel. What will we look like after?

Items to research:
1. Trotsky.  He's so hot here.  We saw a young woman putting up a poster for the upcoming anniversary of his assassination, and in one of the only conversations we've had with a native porteno, "trotskyite" came up a few times.