We find an apartment (quizas)

First, breakfast: I discover that medialunes go well with dulce de leche:

Note that most of the spreading surface has already disappeared. We walk through San Telmo - beautiful buildings, trash bags (all ripped open and picked apart), diesel fumes, tiny sidewalks, graffiti, a poverty and luxury mashup.

I kept pointing out the pretty buildings - I know it's not hip but I love all the classical ornaments. "You just like anything that looks like Paris," Beth said. Okay, guilty. I wanted to take pictures of some of the impressive stuff near La Plaza de Mayo but Beth focused on me instead.

No, not Blue Steel. I call this look: Pensive Tungsten.

We found a Spanish school that a friend had recommended and were quickly gaslighted into signing up for a one week intensive. They were very nice and it will certainly do me good. When I ask about how to say, use the WiFi the literal translation is usually something like: "How is it that the orderly's signal is sounding? Sparking is badness?" Also downtown: unbelievably bad traffic across what seemed like 15 lanes, honking like 10,000 geese all caught in the same net. And many big buildings. This is a huge city. Beth found an architectural idea that spoke to her:

Not Parisian.

We walked (and walked) to check out the locations of various potential apartments. Then, near the end of the day I got an email from an agent indicating that our top choice so far was available. I'm going to the office first thing in the morning to try and lock it down. It may still fall through, so I won't say anything yet, but it looks pretty nice - tiny but lovely. Shouldn't get my hopes up, I hear these sometimes fail.
The sun fell as we were walking through a quieter neighborhood, and it gilded the houses with chilly golden light. It's winter here, though it's warming up - and there is that smell of plant life beginning to stir. We took the subway back to la Plaza de Mayo and caught a free concert of tango music. I was going to upload a bit but it took forever then had an error. Grr.